Guide to the Aqtau - Beyneu road

Chaikhana along the Aqtau - Beyneu road

We found a list of chaikhanas (tea houses) along the road between Aqtau and Beyneu would be useful. Subsequently we've compiled the below list.
For more details about our ride through the desert refer to the August update.
On average there were chaikhanas every 40 kilometres or so with the longest distance being around 70 kilometres. We carried 9 litres of water each but never needed more than half of it before we reached the next chaikhana. Occasionally drivers stopped to take a photo with us and to offer us either water or schnapps. Booze generally appeared to be what kept the traffic going - lot of drivers seemed to stop at every chaikhana along the way to buy a bottle of beer or vodka. Empty bottles were thoughtlessly thrown on the road. We were prepared for punctures caused by the immense amount of broken glass but luckily we didn't have any problems on that stretch.

From Aqtau there are basically 2 options to get to Beyneu. Either the northern route following the P115 to Shetpe and then changing onto the A33, or the southern route following the A33 all the way from Aqtau. We chose the second option. The road is being reconstructed for a couple of years now and was mostly finished. From Aqtau to Shetpe was the worst part although it wasn't even that bad. Long stretches were already finished and rideable even though they were not officially open. The longest stretches on the old bumpy road were around 10-15 kilometres long. Shortly after Shetpe the road improved drastically and there were only 5-6 stretches where traffic was diverted to a dirt road. Those stretches usually didn't exceed the 5 kilometres mark.

43.600950, 51.462883: There were 2 Chaikhanas, 1 on each side of the road. We chose the one on the Beyneu-bound side. Delicious Samsas.

43.517300, 52.081140: Conveniently located opposite a gas station and near a major intersection. There was also a shop and seemingly a car repair shop. Food was excellent, refilling our water bottles was free as was taking a shower.

43.590080, 52.103660: Hotel on the Beyneu-side edge of Zhetybay. A large building opposite the mosque and marked by a "қонақ үй"-sign. The hotel was undergoing renovation when we stopped by. We were allowed to stay in a dormitory though. Toilet was outside the building, showers were inside. Price was 1500 Tenge/person. There were some shops and restaurants nearby. Zhetybay also had a gas station.

43.886297,52.075022: Chaikhana was closed but didn't look abandoned.

44.012840, 52.157500: Very basic Chaikhana. When we stopped by the only thing they would serve were hard-boiled eggs and stale bread. Apart from that only vodka and water were available. And tea obviously.

44.140190, 52.164860: Seemingly the only hotel in Shetpe. There was only a small "қонақ үй"-sign next to restaurant Balumyt and opposite Halyk Bank (which featured 4 ATMs!). Clean rooms with fridge and air con. Shared bathroom inside, toilets outside. Price were expensive 8000 Tenge for a twin room.

44.149639, 52.438534: This buzzling Chaikhana next to the small town of Zharmysh seemed to be endlessly popular with truck drivers. Great Samsas.

44.149900, 52.945320: Village with a Chaikhana next to it. The Chaikhana was closed but didn't look abandoned. We didn't check for shops in the village.

44.107220, 53.212970: Chaikhana on the top of the hill. Looked poor from the outside but the food was great! They also offered basic but clean accommodation in a separate new building around 300 metres away. Price was 2000 Tenge for a twin room. No running water.

44.288520, 53.523630: Closed Chaikhana at the edge of Say-Otes. This chaikhana was probably out of business as there was a new one on the other side of town.

44.314480, 53.568630: New Chaikhana of Say-Otes. Good choice of dishes. There was a hotel-sign next door and probably a car repair shop. The nearby gas station looked abandoned.

44.456910, 53.807280: Very basic Chaikhana. They only served tea, water, canned meat and stale bread. Not too busy anyway which made it a good place for a siesta.

44.580750, 54.045920: Well equipped and busy chaikhana with a good choice of dishes. There seemed to be a second chaikhana around 500 metres towards Beyneu. Didn't check out the latter.

44.691780, 54.301900: Spacious and clean chaikhana. We stopped by shortly after dawn when they were about to open for the day. We didn't want to wait and just bought some water.

44.796500, 54.567250: Small but clean chaikhana with great breakfast.

45.028160, 55.004220: Not much more than an old shipping container with a small shop and limited choice of food.