Dominik and Simon travelling: November 2016

Countries visited: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, India

Cycled mileage in October: 861.7km
Cycled mileage per country: 861.7km India
Total cycled mileage incl. October: 8,229.8km
October mileage not cycled 533.0km (walking, bus) - Flight not included!

Days per country: 6d - Kazakhstan, 9d - Kyrgyzstan, 16d - India
Days cycling: 7d

Technical failures: 1 Puncture

Link to this month's route

Last month we were down on luck. We had fallen behind schedule and skipped the Pamir Highway to get to the Chinese border before the winter. To top things off our plan to obtain a Chinese visa in Central Asia failed as well. We changed our plans and booked a flight to India for mid-October instead.
Finally things turned to the better and Dominik's parents announced they would come to Almaty for the first week of October. We decided to pass the waiting time by exploring the Pamir Highway by car. We just made it back to Bishkek by the end of last month and on October 1st we got on a bus to Almaty. We checked in to the flat we had rented for the week and dumped our backpacks. The bikes were still in Bishkek at the AtHouse. The next morning we went early to the airport. We were both pretty excited and the minutes lasted forever until Dominik's parents finally left the arrival hall.
We had a great week together exploring Kazakhstan’s old capital Almaty and showing them our everyday-life in Central Asia. It was sad to bring them back to the airport and see them leave.

Strolling around Almaty with Dominik's parents

Ascension Cathedral

Posing with the Beatles in Kok-Tobe park

Central Mosque

Green Bazaar

From Almaty we returned back to Bishkek. It took us a couple of days to service our bikes with the spare parts that Dominik's parents brought to Almaty. We also had to prepare the bikes for the flight. During the last days in Bishkek the winter set in and one morning we woke up to a thick layer of snow. The AtHouse was less busy that late in the year and we moved from camping in the backyard to sleeping in the living room.

First snow fall and freezing cold nights in Bishkek!

Indian Visa

On October 16th it was time to say goodbye. We had spent so much time in Bishkek that it felt like a second home really. It was sad bidding farewell to our friends.
Many people had told us India would be an assault of the senses and we were a bit anxious about the arrival. Immigration and customs were hassle free and whatever we were expecting - the airport looked pretty much like any other airport in the world. We didn't have much sleep and we didn't have a clue how to get to our hostel so we elected for taking a taxi there rather than re assembling the bikes and cycling.

Sipping a coffee at Delhi airport

The next 4 days were spent re assembling the bikes and slowly getting used to the oppressive heat and to the madness on India's streets. We also went to explore the historic sights in Delhi.

Re assembling the bikes

Red Fort in Delhi

As crazy as it gets on India's streets

Gurdwara Bangla Sahib Sikh temple

Soup kitchen at the Sikh temple

On October 20th we set off towards Agra. After leaving Delhi behind the traffic wasn't even that bad. Also the smog and the pollution in general were less of a problem outside the bigger cities. Still the ride remained stressful enough. There are just no traffic rules in India except for honking constantly and at all times. All kinds of vehicles are allowed on the roads. Be it horse carts, camel carts or even elephants.

Setting off to Agra - Smog is really a problem around Delhi

First puncture in India - the number of spectators increased quickly

We felt pretty shattered when we reached Agra 2 days after leaving Delhi. We spent a couple of days there, mostly admiring the Taj Mahal.

The quintessential Indian sight - Taj Mahal

And once more

Mosque next to the Taj Mahal...

...and inside the mosque

From Agra we followed Asia Highway 1 all the way to Allahabad. There isn't much to say about the ride there except that it was pure madness. Riding the busiest highway in the most densely populated state in the most populated country on earth is definitely type II fun.

Setting off from Agra to Kanpur just after dawn

Daal (lentils) - our favourite roadside-lunch

Allahabad is one of the holy cities in Hinduism. There are some historic attractions that are well worthwhile but it is most famous for the Kumbh pilgrimage. Every 12 years millions of Hindus gather in Allahabad in order to take a bath where the holy rivers Ganges and Yamuna meet. Luckily the next gathering was only set for 2019!

All Saints' Cathedral in Allahabad

Patalpuri underground temple...

...our visit there left its traces

Mughal tombs

This is where Ganges and Yamuna meet

From Allahabad we continued to Varanasi. We arrived there just in time for the Diwali celebrations that are said to be particularly impressive in this holiest city of Hinduism. Diwali is essentially when Indians celebrate their New Year which is set to be on October 30th in 2016.

Happy New Year!

But even without Diwali Varanasi was a mesmerizing place. Lots of history, lots of beautiful temples, dirt, poverty and pollution. The cremation fires at the Burning Ghats never stop. Varanasi felt like all facets of India condensed in one city.